Travelogue

Sunken GardenAs I mentioned in the previous stop, we had a whole afternoon to devote to visiting the highly-acclaimed Butchart Gardens, because our ferry back to the U.S. didn’t leave until 7:30 in the evening.

The Butchart Gardens are not in the city of Victoria, as I originally thought, but a half hour north in the town of Brentwood.

Butchart Gardens has a fascinating history. It all began in 1902 , when Robert and Jennie Butchard moved to Vancouver Island to build a cement plant on a rich limestone deposit at Tod Inlet.

Sunken GardemWhen the limestone quarry was exhausted, Jennie envisioned creating a grand garden in the depleted quarry. That old quarry is now the Sunken Garden, the most beautiful and popular garden on the property.

Afternoon TeaOver the following decades they continued transforming their property into a botanical garden, traveling extensively throughout the world, collecting rare shrubs, trees, and plants which they transplanted in their gardens. Footpaths, bridges, waterfalls, ponds, and fountains were later added. The gardens now contain over 5,000 varieties of flowers.

Between 1906 and 1929, the Butcharts expanded The Gardens, designing the Japanese Garden on the seaside, the Italian Garden on their former tennis court and the Rose Garden in their old kitchen vegetable garden.

In 1939, the Butcharts gave the Gardens to their grandson Ian Ross on his 21st birthday. Over the next 58 years, he transformed the gardens into a world-renowned attraction, adding outdoor concerts and night lighting in the summers, and the Magic of Christmas in the winters.

It was a real family affair. In 1977 great-grandson Christopher began producing a choreographed firework show every year. In 2009, his sister, and current owner of The Gardens, Robin, added the Children’s Pavilion and Menagerie Carousel.

Italian GardensIn 2004, on the 100th anniversary of the Gardens, two Totem Poles, carved in Classic Coast Salish style by Master Carvers Charles Elliot of the Tsartlip Nation and Doug La Fortune of Tsawout Band, were placed in the Gardens in recognition of the rich cultural heritage provided by Indigenous People.

Today, The Butchart Gardens is a National Historic Site of Canada. It receives over a million visitors a year.

Ownership of the Gardens remains within the Butchart family. Great-granddaughter Robin-Lee Clarke is the current owner and managing director.

Sturgeon StatueA visit to The Gardens wouldn’t be complete without partaking in Afternoon Tea. We almost blew this though because we didn’t know you should make reservations. But it did work out, and we were able to enjoy an indulgent variety of English trifles, savory sandwiches, fresh scones, and lots of house-made sweets in their lovely dining room. Oh, and of course, tea.

Afternoon Tea Menu

Our plan all along was have our ample Amethyst Inn breakfast and our Afternoon Tea get us through the day, so we wouldn’t need dinner before the ferry. As we expected, there was so much food at the tea that we got a doggy bag to bring on the ferry.

The cost for the Afternoon Tea was $40.95 per person (about $30 U.S.), plus the $39.50 per person Admission to the Gardens (about $29), but it was worth every penny of it.

Then it was back to the Victoria ferry for our return to Port Angeles.

Ross FountainI think everyone on the ferry around us was jealous of our fancy snacks. I think we were the only passengers munching on Raspberry pistachio truffle, Carrot cake, Baked lemon custard, Strawberry mousse, and a Chocolate ganache torte.

Since we were too happy with our stay at the Angeles Motel on the way over, we figured we would try the Super 8 by Wyndham. It was a bit better but still a rip-off at $231, and that’s U.S. dollars.

Oh well, at least it positioned us well for going back into Olympic National Park in the morning to hike Hurricane Ridge.

Travelogue

Lolo arrives at the Amethyst InnI have to admit that Victoria was a lot bigger and more urbanized than I expected, so I’m kind of glad we stayed in a cute little Victorian B&B called the Amethyst Inn, away from the hustle and bustle of downtown. When in Rome…be a Victorian.

Oh, and I am so glad we did. The Inn is a fully-restored historic mansion dating back to 1885, and it was absolutely amazing. Our room had 13-foot-ceilings, period furniture and antiques, a cozy fireplace, and a bathroom larger than most people’s living rooms, complete with a giant jacuzzi.

Lolo adjusting to the life of a VictorianWe only had one night here, so we probably should have been out exploring the city, but not before first testing out the jacuzzi. At first we thought it was broken, until we realized we had to flip the outlet switch in the bathroom.

Finally we filled it with water, added bubbles, and turned on the jets. I felt so decadent. It was great.

Craigdarroch CastleEventually we dragged ourselves out of the jacuzzi and set out to explore the town. Rather than drive, we decided to walk down Fort Street to the Inner Harbor (or Harbour as they call it).

Not far from the Amethyst Inn, we made a quick side trip to the Craigdarroch Castle, which unfortunately had already closed for the day. Too bad, because I would have loved to have seen the interior of what was known as a “bonanza castle” - a massive mansion built for entrepreneurs who became wealthy during the industrial age. In this case, the entrepreneur was Robert Dunsmuir, a Scottish immigrant who made his fortune from Vancouver Island coal.

Dinner at Frankie'sWe did, however, enjoy wandering around the exterior.

We continued down Fort Street with the intention of eating at Red Fish Blue Fish, a very popular dockside restaurant right on the harbor, but the line was a mile long.

So, we went back to Government Street, the main drag in terms of restaurants and strolled south towards the Empress Hotel looking for a place to eat. Everything looked pretty crowded.

The iconic Empress HotelWe finally settled on Frankie’s Modern Diner, which turned out to be a good choice - lots of variety, big portions, high quality, quick service, and good value.

After dinner, we continued strolling south to Victoria’s Inner Harbour, the scenic area of the waterfront with Victoria’s main tourist attractions - the Empress Hotel and the British Columbia Parliament Buildings, both extremely impressive structures, especially the Parliament Buildings whose facades were outlined in white lights.

The Crystal GardenThe Empress is the crown jewel on Victoria’s waterfront. Like the U.S. National Park lodges, the idea for the elegant, chateau-styled Empress was conceived by a railroad, in this case the Canadian Pacific Railway, as a way of attracting affluent steam and rail customers.

It was designed by celebrated architect Francis Rattenbury, who also designed the nearby iconic Parliament Building. The Empress Hotel opened in 1908, and it became, and still is, the social and business center of the city.

Glass and mirrors everywhereIt was designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 1981.

If we weren’t already planning to have afternoon tea at Butchart Gardens, the following day, I would have loved to experience afternoon tea here. It is the number one thing that most people associate with the Empress.

Behind the Empress Hotel, is a greenhouse garden called the Crystal Garden. It too was designed by Francis Rattenbury, as well as Percy L. James. It was inspired by London’s more famous Crystal Palace.

Parliament BuildingsIt began as an indoor saltwater swimming pool and dance hall in 1925, commissioned (like the Empress Hotel) by the Canadian Pacific Railway as a way to attract visitors to the city. It continued as that until it was converted to a conservatory in 1980, and is now a Conference Center with a tropical garden of lush plants, exotic birds and mammals.

Its use of glass and steel was unique in Canada at the time of its construction, and reminiscent of railway architecture and the use of glass-enclosed spaces.

We entered the Crystal Garden by walking through the lobby of The Empress. Surprisingly, we had the whole place to ourselves.

Back home to the Amethyst InnFrancis Rattenbury must have been a very busy man, because he also designed the iconic Parliament Buildings, which are a dominant feature of the Inner Harbour. The buildings are the official residence for the B.C. Parliament to pass laws and the Provincial Legislative Assembly to pass laws gather and discuss the direction of the province. It was too bad that we weren’t in Victoria long enough to take one of the guided tours through the buildings.

It was such a nice night that we decided to walk the 2 miles back to the Amethyst Inn.

Victorian breakfast at the Amethyst InnThe next morning, I was very much looking forward to enjoying the Inn’s highly acclaimed breakfast. We sauntered down the staircase like a Victorians and entered the elegant dining room where the tables were set with old china, silverware, and cut glass on white linen tablecloths - just like at home.

The breakfast was amazing - three courses including a fresh fruit parfait, delicious omelet, and home baked croissants and scones.

Sadly, we only had one night in Victoria and had to check out this morning. However, since our ferry to Port Angeles wasn’t until 7:30 tonight, we had the whole day to explore.

Fisherman' WharfWe planned to spend the entire afternoon at the famous Butchart Gardens, but first we wanted to see Fisherman’s Wharf before leaving Victoria. Although it is close to the Inner Harbour, we didn’t have time to explore here last night.

Plus, it was much better in the daylight to enjoy the colorful floating homes, or houseboats, as I would call them. The Victoria Harbour Authority has set aside 33 berths in the marina for floating residences. All of them are occupied and cannot be rented. Too bad, because they would be great Airbnbs.

What a fun place to live though - right in the middle of the action.

Colorful floating homes at Fisherman's wharfMy favorite thing, however, was a cute little yellow water taxi docked at the wharf. The skipper was nice enough to let me and Herb board it. He even used my phone to take pictures of it.

I so wish that we had more time in Victoria, because I would have loved to take a harbor tour in one of these, or at least gotten to see them perform their synchronized water ballet.

Yes, that’s right, these adorable little taxies perform a water ballet every Sunday morning at 10:45 to demonstrate their amazing maneuverability. They have been doing this for 21 years.

Cute little water taxisWhat they are probably best known for is the little 10 minute “Water Ballet" they have been doing every Sunday morning from May to September for 21 years. The boats line up at 10:45 a.m. and demonstrate their amazing maneuverability for the tourists.

The Harbour Ferry captains who volunteered to become “ballerinas” take it very seriously and even practice their routines on land. Apparently, it’s not uncommon to find five men in Harbour Ferry uniforms practicing their ballet moves on foot around the parking lot. I would have loved to have seen that!

As I mentioned, we had the whole day to enjoy before catching our 7:30 pm ferry, so we drove to the famous Butchart Gardens, a half hour north of Victoria in the town of Brentwood.

Travelogue

Herb and the goat chowing downOn our drive back to Victoria, where we would conclude our stay on Vancouver Island, we found two interesting stops along the way.

The first was the Old Country Market in the little town of Coombs, famous for the fact that several goats graze on its roof. It has become a very popular attraction and draws crowds, as was evidenced by the difficulty of finding parking anywhere near it.

As promised there was a goat on the roof, but just one. Where were his buddies? When my son was here, he said there were a bunch of them. So, of course, we joined everyone else taking photos of this poor goat just minding his own business.

Murals of ChemainusThe Old Country Market was worth a visit, even if there was no goat. It had a bakery, a deli, an ice cream stand, island produce, and lots of nosh.

We decided to eat there and had some burgers. I especially enjoyed my photo of the goat and Herb grazing.

Next stop along the way was the town of Chemainus, a sleepy little mill town that reinvented itself in the 1980s when its antiquated sawmill was replaced with a more modern mill, resulting in many layoffs.

Murals of ChemainusNot wanting to slip into oblivion, the town hired local artists to cover the walls of the town’s commercial building with huge murals depicting the town’s history and culture.
The project was so successful, that in 1983 it won a prestigious downtown revitalization competition against towns and cities from around the world.

It was definitely worth the stop, and we spent an enjoyable hour or so wandering around the town. Even the local Subway shop served as a canvas for a depiction of the town’s sawmill history.

Now, onto Victoria. Fortunately, we wouldn’t have to deal with the Highway 4 road closure we had experienced on the way to Tofino, because they don’t close the road on weekends. As much as II would like to say that it was excellent planning on my part, it was sheer luck, as I didn’t even know about the road closures when planning the trip.

Travelogue

Combers BeachOur next destination was two nights in Ucluelet, about a half hour south of Tofino, also on the western coast of Vancouver Island.

It was too early to check into our hotel, so on the drive south we stopped at Combers Beach, located within the boundaries of the Pacific Rim National Park. From the parking lot, we strolled along a boardwalk through a rather enchanting Sitka Spruce Forest before arriving at a driftwood-strewn beach.

View from from our balconyOnce at the beach, we turned left and followed Sandhill Creek, which flowed into the sea. It’s one of the less visited beaches along the coast, so if you want peace and quiet, it’s a great place to stop. The whole time we were there, we didn’t see another soul.

We continued on to the Canadian Princess hotel in Ucluelet, located right on the Ucluelet Harbor. So, this time rather than an ocean view, we had a wonderful view of the harbor right from our balcony. It was nice to change up the view.

Ucluelet HarborWe went for an early dinner at the Floathouse Bar and Grill, a restaurant literally floating in the harbor, just a short walk from our hotel. Herb had the Blackened Rockfish and I had the Pad Thai Noodle Salad. Mine was good, but not sure why I didn’t order fish in a primarily seafood restaurant. Herb’s looked awfully good.

A real gem in Ucluelet is the Wild Pacific Trail, a system of trails that carves through old-growth thickets of twisted trunks and ferns and mosses of the temperate coastal rainforest, as it hugs the wild coastline of the Ucluth Peninsula.

Along the Lighthouse LoopThe trail system is being developed from private, business and government donations to the Wild Pacific Trail Society. The trail is divided into three sections: Lighthouse Loop, Big Beach Section, and Brown's Beach to Ancient Cedars Section.

This evening we close to walk the Lighthouse Loop section during sunset. The trail starts at the Whale parking lot midway along Coast Guard Road. From there we took the Wild Pacific Coast Trail l in a clockwise direction.

Amphitrite LighthouseI loved photographing the rocks jutting out into the sea, with the slow motion feature of my Google Pixel to soften the movement of the water.

One of the first interesting things we encountered was the amazing array of twisted, weather beaten trees along the trail. I wish I knew what kind of trees they were.

Sunset along the Lighthouse LoopEventually we caught a glimpse through the trees of the iconic Amphitrite Lighthouse keeping watch over Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands. This lighthouse was originally built in 1906 in response to the shipwreck of the Pass of Melfort, but it was replaced in 1915 with the current building to better withstand hurricane force storms.

I was anxious to get to a sport along the trail called Inspiration Point in time for sunset. We did and were able to capture a lovely sunset via stairs cut artistically into the headlands.

Artists Loop along the Wild Pacific TrailIt took us just under an hour to do the 2.3 mile loop, but that was because we stopped so often to take photos of the beautiful scenery.

The next morning we set out to explore the Big Beach Section of the Wild Pacific Trail. We parked at the Brown’s Beach section in a parking lot north of the Black Rock Oceanfront Resort on Marine Drive. After a short section of trail following the road, we reached the wilderness coastal trail.

Scouting out the wave for sunsetA little less than a mile from Brown’s Beach we came to the extremely picturesque Artists Loop, which begins in the forest canopy but quickly opens up onto wind-swept cliffs where the wild coastline becomes more and more dramatic with each step. It was by far the most photogenic section of the Wild Pacific Trail.

All along the way there were side trails leading to storm-watching decks and platforms called “Painter’s Perches” with unique views and vistas of the wild coastline.

Ucluelet Catch-and-Release AquariumWe knew this would be a great place to come back for sunset photography, so Herb began marking various places along the way on Gaia. One place in particular attracted us, and we named it “the Wave,” because it looked like a large wave made of stone frozen in time.

We turned around at 2.7 miles at a place called Rocky Bluffs and walked back from whence we came, with the intent of repeating this hike at sunset.

Residents of the Ucluelet AquariumIn the meantime, we had the whole afternoon to explore the tiny village of Ucluelet. So, as I often do, I looked on Trip Advisor for things to do in the nearby area. The #1 thing to do in Ucluelet was unsurprisingly the Wild Pacific Trail. Okay, good. Done that and would repeat tonight. Coming in second was the Ucluelet Aquarium.

At first I balked at the admission price - $14 Canadian dollars for seniors (around $10.30 U.S.), but based on the positive reviews, we figured we’d give it a try.

The aquarium is rather unique in that it is a collect-and-release aquarium, meaning its residents are not permanent, but literally just passing through.

Residents of the Ucluelet AquariumAll of the specimens in the exhibits are collected from nearby Barkley Sound and Clayoquot Sound, and are seasonally released back into the ocean. Most specimens are collected either by scuba divers, by hand at low tide, or by hand seining beaches, whereby specific target animals are removed from the net and the rest are returned to the water.

Despite its smallness, there were a lot of interesting animals on display: rockfish, crabs, bivalves, feather duster worms, bay pipefish, sea anemones, sea pen, and many more. There were even a few touch tanks including one where I got to pet a large sea cucumber.

Then at the end of the season, the staff says goodbye and the animals are returned to their natural habitats.

Lolo scrambling over the sharp rocks to get the shotThe aquarium was definitely worth a visit.

Afterwards we had some very good pizza at nearby Shipwreck Pizza before heading back out to the Wild Pacific Trail for sunset. They had three TV sets going, two with sports and oddly enough, one with Bob Ross doing one of his rapid paintings. The man is amazing. He painted an entire landscape in the time it took for us to eat a pizza.

This time we pretty much focused (no pun intended) on the Artists Loop section of the trail as that was by far the most dramatic.

"The Wave" at sunsetWe revisited the spots Herb had marked on Gaia, but by far my favorite was still the rock formation down on the beach that we had named the “Wave” because of its obvious resemblance to a large wave fixed in position just as it was about to crest.

I tried to get up a bit too close and personal, but the rocks I had to clamber over almost tore my pants and I did scratch my phone.

Not sure if we got any good photos, but it certainly was a beautiful walk. Sometimes I wonder if I shouldn’t just put the camera away and look.

Tomorrow we would head to Victoria for a night.

Travelogue

Our cozy cabin at the Mackenzie Beach ResortWe boarded the 8:30 ferry from Port Angeles, which would take us on a 90-minute scenic journey through the Strait of Juan de Fuca to Victoria on Vancouver Island.

As we drove onto the ferry, I got very nostalgic thinking back to our 30 years of annual trips to Martha’s Vineyard. Time to make new memories on an island of a very different sort that we had never been to before.

Sunset stroll along Mackenzie BeachOur plan was to stay 2 nights in Tofino, 2 in Ucluelet, and 1 in Victoria. Unbeknownst to us when we made our reservations, there was a pretty serious periodic road closure situation on Highway 4 to Tofino, which would impact us. Crews were working on rock scaling, a labor-intensive process to remove dangerous rock material from cliff faces along the Cameron Bluff.

Our hotel informed us that the highway would be open from 11:30 am to 1:30 pm and then again after 5 pm. What they neglected to tell us was that the “flush” (movement of cars) switched at 12:30 pm from going towards Tofino to going towards Victoria.

Herb and his hot tubIt took us a while to get through the ferry unloading process and customs, so we didn’t arrive at the closure point until 12:50 pm, meaning we had just missed our “flush.” Now we had to wait until 5:00 pm to go through.

We sat in the hot car for a while, but then I noticed that some people were walking a short distance through a wooded section alongside the road to get to the shores of nearby Cameron Lake, which we could just see through the trees from our car.

Along our morning runWe decided to make the best of a pretty bad situation and take our beach chairs out to the small beach and read for a while. It certainly beat sitting in a hot car getting aggravated.

Finally, at 5:00 pm they let us through and we drove the 2+ hours to our hotel on MacKenzie Beach in Tofino. Fortunately, our MacKenzie Beach Resort cabin (#7) was worth all the effort getting there - beautiful ocean views and a hot tub and fire pit on our private deck.

Lunch out in TofinoTofino is a very popular destination, so we were very lucky to get such a great place to stay on such short notice. It wasn’t exactly cheap though. It cost $750 USD for 2 nights. Herb and I spend most of our vacations in a motorhome or camping in the back of our 4Runner, so we rationalized that if we amortized our cost per night vacationing, it was pretty cheap. It’s good to splurge once in a while.

And the best part was that the heat wave had hit Tofino, meaning that it was a balmy 80 degrees, very unusual for what is normally a cool, wet climate. Herb hates cold and damp and would happily spend every vacation in a desert if I gave him the chance, so he was quite happy with the Tofino heat wave.

Surfers in Cox BayIt was already past 7:00 pm when we finally got here, so we immediately poured ourselves a glass of wine and walked out to the beach to enjoy the sunset. There were still dozens of paddle boarders and surfers out on the water enjoying the last minutes of daylight.

Once the sun was down, we scurried back to our cabin and spent an hour soaking in our private hot tub. It was a really cute hot tub - oval, made of wood, and 4 steps to get into it. It was definitely only a hot tub for 2. I kept trying to think where we could put one of these in our small yard.

Crazy "non"-trail up to Cox Bay LookoutAt one point I left the hot tub to go into our room to get my phone. Not realizing that the sliding glass door was closed, I smashed my nose really hard into the glass. Herb and I felt the next few minutes feeling it to see if it was broken, but everything seemed in its proper place. It didn’t swell too much, but I did feel it for over a week. I am such a clutz.

The next morning we set out on a run from our beach (MacKenzie Beach) and tried to make our way north to the town of Tofino. It required some navigating through woods, scrambling on rocks, climbing down stairs down to beaches, but we did manage to get to Middle Beach, Third Beach, and Tonquin Beach before turning around. It was a very fun and well-needed 5-mile run.

View from Cox Bay LookoutAfter a shower and another dip in the hot tub, we headed into town to explore and have lunch.

The town was pretty busy, and we didn’t really feel like waiting around for a table in a sit-down restaurant, so we chose the very highly-rated Al’oha Poke and Tostada take-out restaurant at the end of Campbell Street.

It’s not really a food truck, but rather set in one of a group of six container businesses with shared outdoor seating. Except for the bees vying for our lunch, it was great.

Made it down the Cox Bay trailI had the Aloha Bowl, which had Salmon, Shrimp, Calamari, rice edamame, shallots, avocado, pickled radishes, spicy aioli, teriyaki sauce, and I can’t even remember what else. Herb had the Tuna Bowl with Mahi Mahi, sweet onion, avocado, sesame seeds, garlic mayo, and more stuff that he can’t remember either. It was absolutely delicious.

Later that afternoon, we drove down to Cox Bay Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches on the Island and the best place to learn to surf in all of Canada, because of the consistent, medium-sized waves. Our son and daughter-in-law took surfing lessons here last year and absolutely loved it. Well, we weren’t doing that, but we were going to try to do what is considered the best hike in Tofino - the scramble up to the Cox Bay Lookout for a fabulous view of Cox Bay and the surrounding beaches, islands, and mountains.

Evening on our deckBut first, we spent a few hours just relaxing on this beautiful beach watching several groups taking surfing lessons.

As sunset approached, we decided it was time to head up to the lookout. Not wanting to carry our beach chairs and cooler up a difficult trail, Herb hid them in a small cave behind the sandy beach. Hopefully, we would be able to find them later.

The trail was not signed or marked in any way, so we relied on the Gaia app, which showed the trail as well as our progress along it. Gaia has been an extremely valuable tool for us to find some great trails, as well as to not get lost.

Morning farewell stroll on Mackenzie BeachThe trail (if you could call it that) started at the southern end of the beach. We looked for the biggest opening in the forest that looked like a path and started up. The first third of the trail wasn’t very steep, but had exposed roots and rocks to navigate around.

The next section is where the canopy thickens and the terrain becomes steeper, with fallen trees to climb over or under. The last third of the hike gets very steep with some exposed rock.

Every once in a while we noticed on Gaia that we were getting off trail, but we figured if we just kept going up towards the top of the ridge we were generally going in the right direction.

Herb fighting the jungleEventually, we came out to a beautiful viewpoint overlooking Cox Bay, the mountains, and an endless pine forest in between. I’m not sure if we had reached the official lookout, as Gaia seemed to show that we should be more to the right, but there was a giant ravine between us and where it wanted us to go.

It was an incredible spot though, so we declared it was good enough, as did about a dozen other people who joined us. We stayed for the golden hour of sunset, but left in time to not have to go down this crazy trail in the dark. Surprisingly, going down wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be.

As we strolled back along the beach toward the parking lot, we remembered to pick up our hidden chairs and cooler along the way.

Mackenzie Beach RhinoOf course when we got back to our cabin, we soaked in the hot tub for a while. Herb stayed in much longer than me, squeezing out the last minutes of hot tub warmth. I think I was already asleep by the time he got into bed. He must have been as wrinkled as a prune.

It was going to be hard to leave this place tomorrow morning. It was pretty ideal.

Before leaving Tofino, we took one more stroll on MacKenzie Beach, this time heading south. We thought we could possibly find a path through the jungle-like border of our beach to get to Chesterman Beach, but it was just too thick.

We did, however, meet a sand rhinoceros, complete with driftwood horn.

Travelogue

Lake CrescentSince it would take us only 4 hours to get to Port Angeles, where we needed to spend the night to catch an early morning ferry to Vancouver Island, we had plenty of time to have some fun along the way.

Fortunately, Port Angeles is right near the northern end of Olympic National Park, so we decided to drive into the park and spend some time at Crescent Lake. It was still ridiculously hot, so spending time relaxing at a lake sounded perfect.

Hike to Marymere FallsThis was not our first visit to Crescent Lake. 33 years ago we traveled here on a vacation with our then one-year-old son Andrew. We lived in New Jersey then, so it was a very long day of travel - flight from Newark Airport to Seattle, rental car pickup, ferry to Bremerton, and then a drive to Crescent Lake. Despite our long travel day, it was still light out when we arrived, as we had gained 3 hours traveling West.

Herb often accuses me of trying to pack 10 pounds in a 5 pound bag when we travel. Well, I was about to pack 15. Somehow I convinced Herb that hiking to nearby Marymere falls (less than a mile from our cabin) would be a good idea. After all, we needed to stretch our legs a bit after so much sitting.

Somewhat reluctantly Herb loaded Andrew into the baby backpack and off we went to show him his first waterfall. Unfortunately, by the time we got there he was totally slumped over in the backpack fast asleep. Smart kid. We should have been too.

Bridge to Marymere FallsWell, today would be more relaxing than that.

Lake Crescent is absolutely stunning. It was formed when glaciers carved out deep valleys during the last Ice Age. The lake is 900-feet deep, one of the deepest in Washington state. Its waters are a brilliant blue and exceptionally clear, due to the low levels of nitrogen in the water, which inhibit the growth of algae.

It looked extremely inviting, but first lunch in the historic Lake Crescent Lodge with its stone fireplace and sunroom overlooking the azure waters of the lake. I’ve never met a national park lodge that I didn’t like. They are always so cozy and warm.

Marymere FallsAfter lunch, we got our chairs and headed to the small beach along the lake’s shoreline. Since the heat wave was still with us, I enjoyed dipping in and out of the lake to keep cool. It was so pleasant and relaxing after 3 long driving days.

Later that afternoon, we hiked from the beach to Marymere Falls, where we had brought our cute little Andrew so long ago. It’s a lovely short hike, about 0.9 miles each way, through an old-growth, moss-laden forest, across two scenic bridges over flowing creeks, and then 200-feet up a set of stairs to two picturesque viewpoints of 90-foot high Marymere Falls.

Lots of nice scenery for such an easy short hike.

Then it was on to the Angeles Motel, which we chose for its proximity to the Black Ball Ferry to Vancouver Island. Hotels in Port Angeles are pretty pricey because they have a captive audience of early ferry goers. It killed me to have to pay $200 for a crappy little room, when we later spent the same amount for a lovely room on the harbor in Ucluelet. Oh well.

Travelogue

Sauvie IslandWe had to get to Port Angeles on the 3rd night of our adventure to catch an early ferry to Vancouver Island on the following morning.

That meant we could slow the driving pace down a bit and try to squeeze in some fun activity today. It was ridiculously hot out all the way up along the coast. Portland was a record breaking 106 degrees, tied with their previous record two years ago, when we coincidentally were in Portland as well. I have only been to Portland twice in my life and both times it was 106.

During that last hot Portland visit, we had discovered Sauvie Island, just ten miles northwest of Portland at the confluence of the Willamette and Columbia Rivers. It was hard to believe that this pristine oasis of farmland and beaches was so near to the city.

While the southern half of the island is predominantly rural farmland, the northeastern side has beautiful sandy beaches along the Columbia River with some shade trees further back from the water. The perfect place to spend a scorching day.
We were early enough to easily find a parking spot along a lovely sandy beach, where we spent the day relaxing, reading, and dipping ourselves in the Columbia River to get cool.

Sauvie Island "floating saucer"Two years ago we had discovered the Sauvie Island "floating saucer," a large submarine / flying saucer like object colorfully painted all over with graffiti. I set off in search of it again and found it tucked in at the edge of the woods.

A nearby sign gave its history: This 31-foot paddle wheel boat was built in 1973 in Hubbard, Oregon, by an engineer named Richard Ensign. It took him two years and cost $10,000. It could sleep 12 people and had a wood stove. It was launched on the Willamette River, went through the locks at Willamette Falls, and was on the front page of the Oregonian. It was dubbed the "floating saucer." It most likely was left here by the February 1996 flood.

After a little more dipping in and out of the water - I love the cooling evaporation process on a hot day - we headed out to find a place to stay for the night.
We drove for about a half hour to a Best Western in the little town of Oak Meadows. Only 4 more hours to Port Angeles.

Travelogue

Gardens near Riverside InnThis was pretty much just a driving day towards the ferry in Port Angeles (860 miles from home). We conquered 388 of those miles by getting to Grants Pass, just over the border into Oregon. It has often served as a stopping point on our trips up the Pacific Coast.

We stayed this time at the Riverside Inn, right alongside the Rogue River, known for its exciting white water rafting trip.

Unfortunately, the Twisted Cork, the great restaurant we discovered the last time we were here, was closed on Sunday, so we wound up eating the salads that we had brought along on our lovely balcony overlooking the river.

Travelogue

Day 1 - St. Orres to Usal Beach

Point ArenaIt was hard to get to the Lost Cost because there were so many beautiful distractions along the way. The drive north from Jenner to Fort Bragg on the Pacific Coast Highway (Route 1) had to be one of the most beautiful stretches of highway I have ever been on.

We stopped briefly at an old favorite, the headlands overlooking the Point Arena Lighthouse, before continuing on.

It was getting near lunchtime, so I looked on Google Maps to find a place that might be nice to have a picnic. I found a photo icon near a place called Pomo Bluffs Park, set on a rocky bluff just south of the Noyo River in Fort Bragg.

Pomo Bluffs ParkAlthough we have been to Mendocino many times, we have never really stopped or even gone through Fort Bragg.

The two towns are quite different. Mendocino is a tiny, quaint, upscale “New England” type village, set atop a beautiful headland. It is mostly a tourist town and can be quite expensive.

On the other hand, Fort Bragg is a full-service town with about 6,000 residents. However, it too has beautiful headlands, oceanfront walking paths, and lovely beaches - including the famous Glass Beach. Plenty of tourists flock here as well, and the prices are much more reasonable than Mendocino.

Pomo Bluffs ParkHowever, the views from atop Pomo Bluffs Park are equally, if perhaps even more, beautiful than the headlands along Mendocino.

There was a paved path along the bluff’s edge with several dirt trails branching off to the end of points jutting out over the surf, with waves crashing on the rocks below.

I decided to take this opportunity to play with the Long Exposure feature of my Google Pixel phone to slow down the action of the waves to a softer effect. Wow! It actually worked quite nicely.

Usal Beach campingI soon became obsessed with it and started taking everything in Long Exposure - not great if Herb walked through my picture though.

Enough distractions - now onto the Lost Coast, one of the only places along the beautiful California coastline that we haven’t seen.

It’s called the Lost Coast, because it is a 50-mile stretch of beautiful coastline from just north of Fort Bragg to the tiny town of Petrolia, which is pretty much inaccessible except for backpackers and 4WD vehicles.

Brats on the BeachEven with a 4WD vehicle, most of the roads are high up along the ridge of the King Range so you can only get down to the coastline in a few places.

Herb and I had watched several YouTube videos of 4WD groups traveling through the Lost Coast, so we pretty much knew what to expect.

Usal BeachWe were starting our journey at the southern terminus of the park in Usal with the plan of staying overnight at the Usal Campground, or even better yet on Usal Beach.

That still remained to be determined, because there were several blogs that either said you are not allowed to camp on the beach, or worse yet, you were but it was filled with noisy ATVs and people playing with guns. We would just have to wait and see.

Usal BeachIt’s very easy to miss Usal Road from Route 1, as it is not signed out in any way, and it is merely a narrow dirt road surrounded by bushes. Fortunately, we had navigated to it with Google while we still had cell coverage.

As we turned onto the bumpy, dirt road, we were entering the Sinkyone Wilderness State Park, which borders the Pacific Ocean to the west and the King Range National Conservation Area to the north. The road was only wide enough for one car, so thankfully we didn’t pass anyone on their way out. From Highway 1 it was about a 6.5-mile drive to Usal Beach.

Usal BeachTechnically, you are supposed to camp in the official Usal Campground, in a forest area, but we very much preferred camping on the beach itself, so we continued on. When we got there, there were no “No Camping” signs and there were already three trucks camping on the beach. No sign of ATVs or the potential for wild parties, but just families with kids playing in the surf and building castles on the beach. It looked perfect.

We knew more campers would be arriving as the day went on, so we positioned ourselves near the end so that we would have some degree of privacy and quiet.

Herb cooked some bratwurst on the grill (our go-to meal on our camping trip around Iceland) and then we took a sunset walk along the beach. There was lots of bird activity - pelicans diving and seagulls strutting along the beach.

The sunset was lovely, painting the sky a bright orange. Much better than sitting in our camper in the woods.

Day 2 - Usal Beach to Shelter Cove

Black Sands InnAfter a very pleasant stay at Usal Beach, we headed out fairly early in the morning to drive the 25-miles of 4WD bumpy, dirt roads over the mountains towards Shelter Cove.

However, that was not meant to be. When we left the beach and turned left on Usal Road, we were stopped by a road block saying Usal Road was closed. Now what? This had pretty much been our purpose for coming up to the Lost Coast in the first place.

View from Black Sands InnWe saw a ranger on our way out, and he told us that the road was closed so that they could clear some fallen trees. He thought there was a possibility it would re-open today, but we chose not to wait around and see.

Since we had no other choice, we turned around and drove the 6.5 miles that we drove yesterday on Usal Road back out to Highway 1.

Promontory by Black Sands BeachSince we still wanted to go to Shelter Cove and eventually Mattole, we took the truck out of 4WD and did it the asphalt way. It was quite a big work around. Rather than the 25-mile 4WD road, which would have taken us up along Timber Ridge and Jackass Ridge to get to 4 Corners, we drove north 6.5 miles back on Usal Road from whence we came, then on Highway 1 for 15 miles to the town of Leggett, then another 23 miles north on US 101 to the town of Garberville, before taking the Briceland Road for another 15 miles back towards the Sinkyone Wilderness to Four Corners (also known as Thorn Junction).

I’m not sure how long the more direct, bumpy, 25-mile 4WD Usal Road drive would have taken us, but the asphalt detour version took us 2 hours and 15 minutes.

Black Sands BeachIt wasn’t only the extra miles and time that bothered us, but rather missing the opportunity to drive through the southern section of the Lost Coast.

4 Corners is called that because there are 4 roads that meet here: the one we just came down on from Garberville, the one we would have taken if the Usal Road had not been blocked by fallen trees, the Mountain Road to Shelter Cove, and the road to the Needle Rock Visitor Center and Bear Harbor.

Me looking "Lost"We took a brief detour down to the Needle Rock Visitor Center before turning back and heading to Shelter Cove, the only bit of civilization along the Lost Coast. It’s located in a beautiful location, set on a large south-facing cove, and surrounded by the King Range National Conservation Area.

It is reachable by the 35-mile, paved Shelter Cove Road from the town of Garberville on US 101, the road we partially took before turning off at 4 Corners for a detour to the Visitor Center.

Black Sands BeachShelter Cove is a tiny little seaside town with a campground, several very nice hotels and restaurants, and a very good brewery called the Gyppo Ale Mill.

We knew we wanted to stay here for the night, so we had to make the choice: campground or seaside hotel. Well, that decision took a total of about 5 minutes, and before long we were checking into the Black Sands Hotel right on the water. It was only $218, which isn’t bad for a really nice room right on the water, with a hot tub (not in the room, but pretty close).

Plus, it was low tide and there were tide pools on the beach right in front of us.

Lost shoes on the Lost CoastHerb has found that alternating camping in the truck with nice hotels every other or 3rd night keeps me happy.

After eating lunch in our room, we drove the short distance to the trailhead for Black Sands Beach, which is the starting (or ending) point for the 25-mile Lost Coast backpacking trip north to Mattole.

Herb enjoying the hot tubBefore heading out on the beach, Herb crossed an extremely narrow and precarious piece of land to get out onto a promontory with a wonderful view.I did not follow. My hands sweat just watching him.

He did admit that it was probably a very foolish thing to do, with a rather large downside to it, and that the way back was even worse, because it was downsloping and more difficult to control your speed.

He did get a photo of me on the beach from up there looking pretty “Lost”

View from Black Sands InnBack on flat ground, we strolled for about a mile and a half north on the beach. Sand is tough to hike on, so kudos to those that backpack this for 25 miles.

Although I was not brave enough to go out on the promontory, I did climb atop a large rock on the beach. I like to climb things.

There were several very nice houses near the edge of the bluff above the beach, looking somewhat precarious as well. We’ve seen what has happened to bluff houses along the Sonoma Coast. It seems to be only a matter of time before erosion takes its toll.

Back from our walk along Black Sands Beach, we spent some time sipping wine (plastic cups of course) in the hotel’s hot tub.

For dinner this evening, we selected the Gyppo Ale Mill, which in addition to a very fine list of beers, had a good food menu as well. Plus, it was the only brewery in town and just a short walk from our hotel

Gyppo Ale MillIt turned out to be very good. I had a delicious salmon burger and Herb had his boringly predictable fish and chips, which was also very good. I would have loved to play cornhole, but it was already occupied by other customers.

On our way back from the brewery, we passed the Cape Mendocino Lighthouse, which was a bit confusing because we were not on Cape Mendocino.

However, this lighthouse once located on Cape Mendocino before it was moved here. Built in 1868 on the westernmost point of California, it took a beating from storms and even earthquakes for 130 years, before the wise decision was made to save it and relocate it 35 miles south in Shelter Cove.

Cape Mendocino LighthouseIn 1998, a National Guard helicopter lifted the lantern room off the lighthouse and flew it to Shelter Cove. The rest of the pieces were dismantled, numbered, and sent by truck to a construction yard where it was reassembled, painted, and fitted with new glass. It was opened to the public in 2001.

The original Fresnel lens had a different fate. When the lighthouse was automated in 1947, it was removed and loaned to the city of Ferndale and displayed at the Humboldt County Fairgrounds.

Fearing the lens (valued at $2 million) was not being properly preserved, the Coast Guard has taken it back and placed it in a facility to help preserve it. Ferndale wants to keep it, so it has become quite a controversy. I’m not exactly sure where it is now.

Shelter Cove had been a great stop, and I was now charged up and ready for another day of 4-wheeling and sleeping in the truck.

Day 3 - Shelter Cove to Mattole

Along King Peaks RoadAfter leaving the Black Sands Inn, we drove about 5 miles on Shelter Cove Road before making a left onto the dirt Kings Peak Road, which would bring us up and over the mountains of the King Range National Conservation Area in the Lost Coast Wilderness..

The beach along the coast that backpackers follow is not very wide, as the mountains of the King Range rise abruptly, practically out of the surf, to a height of 4,088 feet, with King Peak just 3 miles from the ocean. It is a spectacular meeting between land and sea. Literally surf and turf.

Mattole Campground under constructionThere are really only two ways to experience the King Range area: backpacking along the coast trail (as it is famous for) or driving a 4WD vehicle up and down through the mountains as we were doing.

There are several hiking trails that connect the two, but that was not on our agenda for the day.

Heading off along the Lost CoastEventually King Peak Road became narrower and bumpier and climbed steeper and steeper along a series of hairpin switchbacks.

After 7 miles, which felt like 20, we got to the junction with Saddle Mountain Road. We had watched an Overtrails YouTube video, in which the 4WD guide said that Saddle Mountain was his favorite part of the trip, so we decided to take it. It joins back up with the King Peak Road in a few miles.

Along the Lost CoastThe video was right. Saddle Mountain Road brought us out of the woods and into the open for sweeping vistas of the Pacific Ocean in one direction and King’s Peak in the other. In a few more miles, we were back on the King Peak Road.

Then it was just a few more miles of dirt before we reached the paved Wilder Ridge Road, which took us to Mattole Road in the little town of Honeydew. From there it took us about 40 minutes to drive the 20 miles to the Mattole Campground.

Along the Lost CoastWe passed the A.W. Way County Park along the way, which was another camping choice along the Mattole River. However, we wanted to go all the way to the beach on the actual Lost Coast.

All told, the drive from Shelter Cove to Mattole had taken us about 2 and ½ hours to cover 47 miles, 25 of which were steep, twisting, 4WD dirt roads.

Approaching Punta Gorda LighthouseSo even though we missed the chance to 4WD through the southern portion of the Lost Coast on the Usal Road the other day because of fallen trees, we got our fair chair of bouncing around through the wilderness today.

When we finally got to the Mattole Campground we were shocked to find most of its 14 sites full of construction trucks, plus a sign saying that the campground was closed for renovation. However, several campers had tucked themselves in between the trucks.

Climbing up the LighthouseNot wanting to drive any more today, and very much wanting to hike along the beach to the Punta Gorda lighthouse, we settled ourselves between a dump truck and a backhoe. We chose an end site so that we would have at least some semblance of a natural surrounding. We didn’t plan to spend much time in the campground anyway.

We packed a lunch and headed out on the Lost Coast trail, which started right from the campground.

Our goal was to hike 3.5 miles to the Punta Gorda Lighthouse and back. Part of this route is under water during high tide, but we were starting our hike just one hour after low tide, so we would have no problem.

Punta Gorda LighthouseWalking on sand is not easy, so we give kudos to anyone venturing the 25-mile hike from Mattole to Shelter Cove. We tried to find the easiest surface to walk on. First we tried the wet sand along the water’s edge and eventually transitioned up to the trail that ran along the foothills of the mountains. That too was pretty sandy though.

When we approached the lighthouse, we saw a structure fenced off and covered with scaffolding. Oh no! Thwarted by construction again??

Fortunately, that was not the lighthouse, but the old oil house building. The lighthouse itself was not covered in scaffolding, and we were even able to enter it and climb up to its balcony.

Elephant Seals determining dominanceThis lighthouse, which was built in 1911, is located along a very treacherous section of the Northern California coast, with many dangerous sunken rocks off the shore. In fact, we were admiring some of those rocks right now that weren’t so sunken during low tide.

The overhanging mountains behind us made navigating even more difficult, because the shadows they cast over the shoreline made it hard for ships to see how far they were from shore.

Back to the Mattole CampgroundNine ships were lost along this isolated section of the Lost Coast before the Punta Gorda Lighthouse was finally constructed.

Originally, there were many more structures here: three dwellings, a concrete oil house, a wooden fog signal building, a blacksmith/carpenter shop, three storage sheds and a barn. Today, all that remains is the lighthouse and the oil house, which is the one undergoing renovation today.

My secret world in Mattole CampgroundAfter World War II, it was decided that this lighthouse was too expensive to maintain, so its functionality was replaced with a lighted buoy offshore. In 1951, the Fresnel lens was removed (they are quite valuable), and the lighthouse was boarded up and deactivated. No one seems to know where that Fresnel lens wound up.

In the late 60s, hippies moved into the quarters and improved them. The Bureau of Land Management, which now had jurisdiction fo this land, booted them out and burned all the buildings except for the two that we see today - the lighthouse and the oil house.

Beach Walk by Mattole CampgroundThe sandy beach by the lighthouse is a popular place for elephant seals to congregate because the rocks in the surf give them some protection from crashing waves.

We found a nice piece of driftwood to sit on and eat our lunch while watching about a dozen elephant seals putting on a show, posturing and sometimes even fighting, in their attempt to establish male dominance. The stakes were high, because the dominant male will get to mate with a majority of the ladies when they arrive.

Where the Mattole River flows into the seaThey are large animals, weighing between 1,000 and 3,000 pounds so we made sure to keep our distance. We could have hung around and watched them for hours, but we still had 3 and ½ miles of sand to trudge through on our way back to the campground.

We hiked back in plenty of time to avoid the impassable-during-high-tide portion of the beach. However, what we weren’t able to avoid was the intense wind and sand blowing in our face, which is the reason why many backpackers choose to hike from north to south in order to have the prevailing northwest wind at their backs.

Beach by Mattole CampgroundBack at our campsite, we ate dinner facing the woods behind us rather than the construction trucks to either side. We noticed a small opening in the bushes and decided to check it out.

What we found was a magical little sanctuary, totally hidden from the campground. It looked like a place that elves and gnomes would frequent - you have to excuse me, but we just came back from Iceland where elves, gnomes, and the occasional troll run rampant. It was very peaceful and serene.

Sunset on Mattole BeachTowards sunset we took a walk out to the beach and walked down towards where the Mattole River flows into the sea.

Now we had seen all three of the places that non-backpackers can access the stunning remote Lost Coast - Usal Beach, Shelter Cove, and Mattole.

We were done with the 4WDing portion of our trip, but the 42 miles along Mattole Road up to Ferndale was pretty exciting in its own right, with lots of steep hills and twisty roads.

From Ferndale it was less than 4 hours to get home, although it had taken us at least 12.5 to get here - but those 12.5 were a lot more fun!