Travelogue

Along the drive to AkaroaI think it was a pretty bold move on our part to take on the sea to sea drive on our last day with the campervan.

Starting at Punakaiki Beach Camp on the Tasman Sea in the morning, we drove down the West Coast and then onto the Great Alpine Highway over Arthur’s Pass, and then onto Highway 75, a steep twisty road that crosses the hilly terrain of the Banks Peninsula, before steeply descending into the lovely town of Akaroa on the South Pacific Sea.

If we had known how steep and windy the road to Akaroa was, we might have thought twice about doing this. I’m glad we were so uninformed, because Akaroa turned out to be worth every white-knuckling mile.

View of Akaroa Harbor from our campsiteWe camped at another Top 10 Holiday Park, which is kind of like the KOA of New Zealand - great facilities that you can depend on. It would be our 5th night staying in one this trip.

This one at location, location, location - overlooking the Akaroa Harbor and in walking distance to town, where there were plenty of restaurants, cafes, and shops.

After parking the campervan in our site, we walked down the steep road into town and strolled along the Rue Lavaud, Akaroa’s Main Street, looking for a place to eat.

The walk to townHmm…All the streets were called Rue something. Sounded a bit French to me, and it turns out that the French did play a role in the settlement of this village.

The Maori had established a settlement here more than 700 years ago, drawn by the sheltered harbor and abundant resources. They were the ones that gave the village the name “Akaroa,” which means “Long Harbor.” They still have a presence in the community, but only make up about 6% of the population.

View from our dinnerThen in 1838, a French whaler named Captain Langlois, arrived, believing he had purchased the Banks Peninsula from the Maori.

In 1840, a group of French settlers sailed to Akaroa on the ship “Comte de Paris,” led by Captain Charles Lavaud. Their intention was to create a French colony in the South Island.

Oh, so that’s why the Main Street is name Rue Lavaud.

Sunset over Akaroa HarborUnfortunately for the French settlers, they were a little late. The Treaty of Waitangi had already been signed by the Maori and the British, making the South Island a colony of Britain.

Despite this the French settler remained, often intermarrying with the British, so it has remained a unique French settlement within New Zealand.

Dinner at Ma MaisonBy the time we got into town at 7:30, most of the restaurants were closing soon. Fortunately, we found one that was open to 9:00, and it was perfect - French name (Ma Maison), beautiful location on Beach Road overlooking the Harbor, and excellent food.

Herb had a delicious filet mignon and I had Crispy Glazed Tamarind Eggplant and Seared Scallops.

Not sure which was better - the food or the view from a table.

We had enjoyed the town so much that the next morning before driving back up the crazy road to Christchurch to return the campervan, we parked near the Akaroa Freedom Campsite near the Boat Park and walked from there.

Peninsula War MemorialI kind of wish we had known about this Freedom Camp last night, because besides it being free, it was right on the water and much closer to town. Oh well. The Top 10 Holiday Park and nice showers and an RV dump, which we had to use because we needed to return the campervan empty.

From the Freedom Campsite, we strolled back up Rue Lavaud, looking for potential breakfast places along the way. So far, The Common was winning.

Yummy Eggs Benedict with SalmonContinuing along the Rue Lavaud, we eventually came to the Peninsula War Memorial, an elaborate, free-standing cupola, complete with flying buttresses and a granite spire, located at the center of a garden, guarded by tall palm trees.

It is dedicated to the men of the Banks Peninsula who died in World War I, World War II, and the African War, whose names are engraved on granite tablets inside the cupola.

Then it was back to The Common, a popular cafe and garden bar on Rue Lavaud that serves brunch.

Secret door at The CommonI had to have eggs benedict with salmon and spinach one more time before I left New Zealand.

Herb had the hash and eggs, but counted it as a vegetable because it had spinach and avocado.

Before leaving, I asked where the restroom was - actually they use the word toilet instead. I was told that it was behind the bookcase. Hmm? Sure enough, I glanced to my right and saw a tall bookcase. I pushed on it, and sure it was a secret door.

Very cool place and the food was great.

All good things must come to an end, and I guess this was it. Well, actually we still had the challenging, but stunning, drive back up and down windy, hilly Highway 75 to Christchurch to return the Campervan at Wilderness Motorhome Rentals.

Then it was a night in Sudima Airport Hotel and the long flight home to San Francisco.

What a great trip it had been, but we were pretty ready to get back home..